Archive for category: Killer Bees

You are here: / Killer Bees

How to Get Rid of Killer Bees Safely (and Why Not to Do It Yourself)

/0 Comments/in /by

If you’re searching for how to get rid of killer bees, the most important advice from every university extension service and state agriculture department is the same: don’t try it yourself. A disturbed Africanized colony can send hundreds of bees after you and stay agitated for days. The safe way to get rid of killer bees is to keep people and pets away, then hire a trained professional who will remove the bees and the comb and help keep new swarms out. This guide explains what that process looks like, how to choose the right help, and what you can safely do on your own. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: how to get rid of killer bees

Hire a trained bee removal professional or licensed pest control operator (PCO). Don’t do it yourself. University of Arizona Extension says, “Do not try to remove colonies yourself! NEVER shoot, throw rocks at, pour gasoline on, burn, treat with pesticides, or otherwise threaten established honey bee colonies.” NC State Extension adds, “We do not recommend that you exterminate the bees yourself.” While you wait, keep everyone at least 100 feet away, as the USDA recommends, and don’t block the entrance. After removal, make sure all comb comes out and the opening is sealed.

Why DIY killer bee removal is dangerous

Africanized bees respond to a disturbance in force. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists say a disturbed Africanized colony may send out several hundred guard bees, sting 100 to 1,000 times, and stay defensive for days. They may chase an intruder 400 yards or more.

UF/IFAS also points out who gets hurt: “In the US, a large percentage of African bee attacks occur on people who know a nest is present but elect not to have it removed (or try to do it themselves).” In other words, most serious incidents are preventable.

Two more reasons not to improvise:

  • Spraying or blocking can backfire. University of Arizona Extension warns, “Do not attempt to seal holes or fill voids if bees are actively moving in and out.” Trapped bees can find another way out, sometimes into the house.
  • Killing the bees doesn’t finish the job. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says killing bees inside a wall “is extremely difficult to do without completely opening the wall,” and all the comb must be removed or it will rot and attract other pests.

If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, our guides on where killer bees build nests and how to identify Africanized bees can help.

Step 1: Keep your distance and keep others away

Before anything else:

  • Note the location, but don’t approach. NC State Extension says to “note its location but don’t approach it.”
  • Keep a buffer. USDA ARS recommends staying at least 100 feet, about the width of a four-lane highway, from any Africanized hive.
  • Keep pets and livestock away, especially animals that are tied or penned. See Protecting Pets and Livestock from Killer Bees.
  • Skip the mower and power tools near the area. Texas A&M’s Apiary Inspection Service lists equipment vibration as a top trigger.
  • Don’t ignore a “calm” colony. UA Extension says small new colonies “may be docile at first, but can become more defensive with age.”

Step 2: Figure out if it’s a swarm or a nest

A swarm is a cluster of bees resting in the open, often on a branch or fence, while scouts look for a home. USDA ARS says swarms are “generally docile regardless of type” and usually leave within 24 to 48 hours. A nest (or established colony) is a group of bees with comb, usually in a cavity, with a steady stream of bees flying in and out.

Swarms often move on by themselves. Established colonies don’t, and they’re where stinging incidents happen. Either way, UF/IFAS advises never approaching a swarm, because it may already be building a nest. More on that in Killer Bee Swarm Season.

Step 3: Call the right professional

There are two main options:

Live removal by a beekeeper

Some beekeepers remove colonies alive. In Florida, beekeepers registered with the state may remove colonies or swarms but may not use pesticides, according to UF/IFAS. Note that the Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says many beekeepers won’t take wild swarms or colonies because their health and temperament are unknown.

Removal or eradication by a licensed PCO

A trained pest control operator can remove or eradicate a colony. UF/IFAS says Florida recommends feral colonies near people or animals be either removed by a registered beekeeper or trained PCO, or eradicated by a licensed PCO. Other states don’t spell it out the same way, so check with your state’s department of agriculture or apiary inspection service.

Where to find help

  • Florida: FDACS publishes a list of registered beekeepers and PCOs who offer bee removal or eradication.
  • Texas: The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab maintains a county bee removal page for areas without listed operators.
  • Elsewhere: Texas A&M suggests contacting your state beekeepers’ association, and NC State suggests your local Cooperative Extension office.

You don’t need to have the bees tested first. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says testing isn’t needed if you’re planning removal or extermination.

What a professional should do

UF/IFAS’s consumer guide to hiring a PCO for honey bee removal lists what to expect. A trained professional should:

  • Wear protective gear, including a veil, sting suit, and gloves.
  • Confirm the insects are honey bees and explain whether it’s a swarm or an established colony.
  • Tell you honestly that Africanized and European bees can’t be told apart without lab analysis.
  • Secure the area from onlookers and make sure no penned or tied animals are nearby.
  • Use only products labeled for honey bees or for the specific site.
  • Remove all dead bees and all comb.
  • Discuss the procedure first, including whether a wall or subfloor needs to be opened.
  • Talk with you about bee-proofing afterward.

UF/IFAS also lists red flags. A PCO should not work without protective gear, claim to know the bees are Africanized (or European) without lab testing, or charge more for “killer bees,” since there’s no way to tell them apart in the field.

Get it in writing

UF/IFAS recommends a written contract that spells out the removal method, disposal of dead bees, and complete removal of comb. Without one, you may have little recourse if problems show up later.

Why comb removal matters

This is the step people skip, and it causes most of the follow-up trouble. UF/IFAS says leftover comb attracts roaches and other insects to rotting brood; fermenting honey can smell; and honey and melting wax can soak into a wall, leaving a stain that can’t be painted over. Wax moth and small hive beetle larvae feeding on old comb can make their way into the home. NC State Extension adds that this often means opening a wall and repairing it afterward, and that it’s best to act sooner, because larger nests do more damage.

After removal: keep killer bees from coming back

An empty cavity that still smells of bees is an invitation to the next swarm. University of Arizona Extension says that if a colony is removed from a void, “the interior should be cleaned out completely and entrance points sealed, or new swarms will recolonize the space.”

Then bee-proof the rest of the property:

  1. Seal gaps of 1/8 inch or more in walls, eaves, and around pipes (Texas A&M, NC State).
  2. Screen vents, rain spouts, and meter boxes with 1/8-inch hardware cloth.
  3. Clear out junk, tires, buckets, and overturned pots.
  4. Inspect regularly, once or twice a week from spring through fall, per Texas A&M.

UF/IFAS notes that a PCO may leave a swarm trap or sticky trap for up to a month to catch returning bees.

If someone is being stung

Call 911. Don’t try to rescue them unless you’re trained and suited up, says the University of Arizona. NC State notes that fire departments may respond with foam or surfactant spray. Everyone else should get inside a building or car. The full plan is in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Frequently asked questions

Can I spray killer bees myself?

Extension services advise against it. University of Arizona Extension says never to treat established colonies with pesticides yourself, and NC State does not recommend DIY extermination. Hire a trained professional.

Should I seal the hole bees are using?

Not while bees are active. University of Arizona Extension says not to seal holes or fill voids with bees moving in and out. Seal it after a professional removes the colony and comb.

Will a killer bee swarm leave by itself?

Often, yes. USDA ARS says exposed swarms typically leave within 24 to 48 hours. Established nests don’t leave on their own.

Do I need to test the bees before removal?

No. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says testing isn’t needed before removal or extermination.

Should killer bee removal cost more?

UF/IFAS says a PCO should not charge more for “African” bees, because they can’t be identified without laboratory tests.

Who is responsible for removing bees on my property?

In Florida, UF/IFAS says it’s the property owner’s responsibility. Check your state’s rules elsewhere.

Sources

Killer Bee Nest: Where Africanized Bees Build and What Attracts Them

/0 Comments/in /by

A killer bee nest is rarely where people expect it. European honey bees usually pick a roomy, dry tree hollow or wall. Africanized “killer” bees will settle for a water meter box, an old tire, a cinder block, or a hole in the ground, which is why so many stinging incidents start with someone mowing, digging, or opening a lid. This guide explains where Africanized bees build nests, what attracts them to a property, how to spot a hidden colony, and how to make your home less inviting. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: where do killer bees build nests?

Almost anywhere with a small, sheltered cavity. The USDA Agricultural Research Service lists water meter boxes, metal utility poles, cement blocks, junk piles, house eaves, hollow tree limbs, overturned flower pots, old tires, mobile home skirts, and abandoned structures. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists add barbecue grills, cavities in the ground, and combs hanging exposed from tree limbs. Africanized colonies can live in spaces of just 1 to 5 gallons, compared with about 10 gallons for European honey bees.

Why killer bee nests are in such odd places

It comes down to colony size and swarming. UF/IFAS explains that because Africanized bees swarm more often, each swarm has fewer bees, so “they do not require a large cavity to build a nest.” UF/IFAS compares the two types this way:

European honey bee Africanized honey bee
Typical nest size Large cavities, around 10 gallons Smaller cavities, 1 to 5 gallons
Location Dry, above-ground cavities Will use damp underground cavities
Exposure Protected sites, rarely exposed Will nest in the open, such as hanging from a branch
How easy to spot Larger colonies, easier to detect Smaller colonies, often undetected until disturbed

The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) puts it simply: Africanized bees “are not selective of nesting sites” and “will quickly inhabit empty spaces, holes or cavities,” while European bees prefer drier sites 3 or 4 feet above ground. The behavioral background is in Africanized vs. European Honey Bees.

Common killer bee nest locations

Combining USDA, university extension, and state agriculture lists, here are the places to check.

Around the yard

  • Water meter and irrigation valve boxes. Texas A&M’s Apiary Inspection Service says Africanized bees “love water meters.” UF/IFAS uses a meter box as its textbook example.
  • Holes in the ground, including old rodent burrows. University of Arizona Extension recommends filling animal burrows.
  • Old tires, buckets, cans, and empty boxes. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says bees will use containers from as little as 2 gallons.
  • Overturned flower pots and inverted metal cans, which NC State Extension calls “excellent nesting cavities.”
  • Junk piles, lumber piles, and abandoned equipment.

On and in buildings

  • Wall voids, eaves, and soffits, entered through small cracks.
  • Hollow-block walls, attics, and crawl spaces, per University of Arizona Extension.
  • Sheds, garages, and outbuildings, especially ones that aren’t used often.
  • Low decks, spaces under buildings, and mobile home skirting.
  • Barbecue grills and infrequently used vehicles.

In natural spaces

  • Hollow trees, stumps, and fence posts.
  • Rock crevices, cliff faces, and caves. The National Park Service says colonies in Saguaro National Park use rocky areas, underground cavities, and even saguaro cactus cavities. (More in Killer Bees in Arizona.)
  • Exposed combs on branches. UF/IFAS shows a two-month-old Africanized colony built in the open on tree branches.

What attracts killer bees to your property?

Nothing “lures” Africanized bees on purpose, but a few things make a property more appealing.

1. Shelter

Open cavities are the biggest draw. The ARS says that when a colony outgrows its site, “it will simply swarm and find a new one.” Every unsealed gap, empty container, and junk pile is a potential new home.

2. Water

Bees need water to cool the nest. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab explains that bees collect water and fan it to cool the hive “like a swamp cooler,” and in hot, dry weather they’ll use pools, birdbaths, pet bowls, dripping faucets, and irrigation leaks. The National Park Service notes that honey bees must live close to water. University of Arizona Extension recommends fixing leaky taps and irrigation systems promptly.

3. Food

Flowers, hummingbird feeders, fallen fruit, open soda cans, and overflowing trash all draw foraging bees. UA Extension suggests picking up dropped fruit, covering sweet foods and drinks outdoors, using bee guards on hummingbird feeders, and keeping trash cans closed and away from doors.

4. Empty beehives

TAIS lists abandoned bee hives as a favorite. UA Extension notes wild bees “will colonize vacant hive boxes belonging to beekeepers.”

What provokes bees near a nest

Attraction to a site is different from what triggers an attack. University of Arizona Extension says bees can be provoked by mower and equipment vibration, physical disturbance, being doused with water, and certain smells, including gasoline, some pesticides, paint thinners, and some hair sprays. UA’s Yavapai County office notes that dark clothing and strong floral or citrus scents can also draw defensive bees.

Signs of a hidden killer bee nest

Because Africanized colonies are small, UF/IFAS says they “often go undetected until disturbed.” Watch for:

  • A steady stream of bees flying in and out of one opening. NC State Extension says bees “seen entering and exiting a single hidden location” may mean an established colony.
  • Hundreds of bees clustered together in one spot rather than scattered across flowers.
  • A buzzing sound from a wall, meter box, or the ground. UF/IFAS recommends listening for buzzing as part of a family bee safety plan.
  • Bees bumping you or flying at your face near a particular spot, a defensive warning described by University of Arizona Extension and the National Park Service. You can’t confirm Africanized bees by sight; see How to Identify Africanized Bees.

A few dozen bees on your flowers is normal and harmless, according to NC State. A cluster hanging on a branch with no traffic in and out is probably a temporary swarm. Learn the difference in Killer Bee Swarm Season.

Swarm vs. nest: why it matters

The ARS explains that swarms are “generally docile regardless of type,” because they have no brood, queen, or food stores to protect, and they usually leave within 24–48 hours. “Stinging incidents by Africanized honeybees occur when the actual nest site, not the swarm, is disturbed.” UF/IFAS still says never to approach a swarm, because you can’t be sure it hasn’t already started building a nest.

How to make your property less attractive

University extension services agree on the basics of “bee-proofing”:

  1. Seal openings 1/8 inch or larger in walls, around chimneys, plumbing, and wiring, using caulk, wire mesh, or expanding foam (Texas A&M, NC State, University of Arizona).
  2. Screen what you can’t seal with 1/8-inch hardware cloth: rain spouts, vents, meter and utility boxes, tree cavities, and fence posts (Texas A&M).
  3. Remove junk and debris, including tires, buckets, and overturned pots.
  4. Fix water leaks and manage pet bowls and birdbaths.
  5. Inspect regularly. Texas A&M recommends checking once or twice a week from spring through fall.

One important exception: University of Arizona Extension warns, “Do not attempt to seal holes or fill voids if bees are actively moving in and out.” Sealing an active colony can drive bees into the house or set off a defensive response. That’s a job for a professional; see How to Get Rid of Killer Bees.

Frequently asked questions

Do killer bees nest in the ground?

Yes. UF/IFAS says Africanized bees will nest in underground cavities, including damp ones that European bees avoid. Old rodent burrows and meter boxes are common examples.

What does a killer bee nest look like?

Usually you won’t see much: just bees flying in and out of a hole or gap. When exposed, the nest is sheets of wax comb covered in bees, sometimes hanging from a branch.

What attracts killer bees to a house?

Small sheltered cavities, water sources, and food such as flowers, fallen fruit, and sweet drinks. Unsealed gaps in walls and eaves are the main way they get inside.

How big is a killer bee nest?

Africanized colonies can live in cavities of just 1 to 5 gallons, according to UF/IFAS, much smaller than the roughly 10 gallons European bees prefer.

Can a killer bee nest be in my wall?

Yes. Bees enter wall voids through small cracks. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says bees should never be allowed to remain in a wall, because colonies grow more defensive and the comb causes damage.

Sources

Bee Sting Allergy: Anaphylaxis Signs, What to Do, and How It’s Treated

/0 Comments/in /by

A bee sting allergy is the one situation where a single sting from any honey bee, Africanized or not, can be life-threatening. For most people a sting means pain, a red welt, and some swelling. For a small number, the immune system overreacts and triggers anaphylaxis, a whole-body emergency. This guide explains the difference, the warning signs to watch for, what to do in the first minutes, and how allergists treat sting allergy long term. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

This page is general information, not medical advice. If someone has trouble breathing or swelling of the throat or tongue after a sting, call 911 now.

Quick answer: what are the signs of a bee sting allergy?

A normal reaction stays at the sting site: pain, redness, swelling, and itching. An allergic reaction (anaphylaxis) spreads through the body, usually within minutes. The American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology (AAAAI) lists signs that include hives and itching, swelling in the throat or tongue, difficulty breathing, dizziness, stomach cramps, nausea, or diarrhea, and in severe cases a sudden drop in blood pressure, shock, and loss of consciousness. Use epinephrine if it’s been prescribed and call 911.

What causes a bee sting allergy?

The AAAAI explains that in an allergic person, the first sting causes the body to produce an antibody called immunoglobulin E (IgE). If that person is stung again by the same kind of insect, the venom interacts with that IgE and triggers the release of substances that cause an allergic reaction. The National Library of Medicine’s MedlinePlus describes the result as histamine and other chemicals released throughout the body, which tighten the airways and cause the other symptoms.

That’s why someone can be stung once without trouble and react badly the next time.

How common is it?

A Cochrane review of venom treatment estimates that at least 1 in 200 people have had a severe allergic reaction to a sting from a bee, wasp, or ant. CDC data show that hornet, wasp, and bee stings caused 788 deaths in the United States from 2011 to 2021, an average of 72 a year, and 84% of those who died were male. Those CDC numbers count every death coded to stings, not only allergic reactions.

Bee sting allergy vs. a normal reaction

Normal local reaction

The AAAAI says most stings cause redness, swelling, and itching at the site. University of Arizona Extension says the discomfort and swelling can last 2–3 days. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists stress that “swelling around the stung area is normal and not an indication of systematic allergy.”

Large local reaction

Some people get swelling that grows much larger than usual around the sting. The Cochrane review treats these “large local reactions” as a separate category from systemic (whole-body) reactions. The AAAAI advises seeing a physician if swelling keeps progressing or the site looks infected.

Anaphylaxis (systemic reaction)

UF/IFAS describes the red flags: difficulty breathing, hives covering large areas of the body, nausea, vomiting, and swelling away from the sting site. “The latter suggests a systemic reaction.” MedlinePlus adds chest tightness, wheezing, trouble swallowing, slurred speech, swelling of the face, eyes, or tongue, anxiety, palpitations, and unconsciousness, and notes that symptoms “develop quickly, often within seconds or minutes.”

MedlinePlus also flags one easy-to-miss warning sign of dangerous throat swelling: a very hoarse or whispered voice, or coarse sounds when breathing in.

What to do for an allergic reaction to a bee sting

MedlinePlus and the AAAAI give these steps:

  1. Call 911 or your local emergency number right away.
  2. Use epinephrine immediately if the person has an auto-injector or nasal spray. MedlinePlus says “there is no contraindication to using epinephrine in a severe allergic reaction.”
  3. Scrape out the stinger with something firm, like a fingernail or plastic card. Don’t use tweezers; MedlinePlus says squeezing releases more venom. The AAAAI advises getting it out within 30 seconds if you can.
  4. Help prevent shock. Have the person lie flat with feet raised about 12 inches and cover them with a coat or blanket, unless they have a head, neck, back, or leg injury, are vomiting, or it’s uncomfortable.
  5. Don’t put a pillow under the head if they’re struggling to breathe, and don’t give anything by mouth.
  6. Go to the emergency room even if epinephrine works. The AAAAI says epinephrine “is a rescue medication only,” and the person still needs emergency care.

Carry two doses

If you’ve been prescribed epinephrine, the AAAAI says to carry two devices, because “1/3 of the time a second dose is needed.” Learn how to use them and replace them before they expire. The CDC’s National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) also recommends that workers with a history of severe sting reactions carry epinephrine and wear a medical ID bracelet or necklace.

Many stings vs. one allergic sting

Killer bee attacks add a second danger: toxic envenomation from many stings, even in people who aren’t allergic. UF/IFAS says there’s a risk of venom overdose after about 5–10 stings per pound of body weight, and recommends medical attention for numerous stings. University of Arizona says to seek care after more than 15 stings.

Allergy is different. UF/IFAS points out that for an allergic person, “a single sting can cause death,” regardless of whether the bee is Africanized. Africanized bee venom is no more potent than a European honey bee’s; the danger from killer bees is the number of stings. More detail is in How Dangerous Is a Killer Bee Sting?

Long-term treatment: venom allergy shots

If you’ve had a serious reaction, the AAAAI recommends seeing an allergist for testing and a treatment plan. One proven option is venom immunotherapy, which Cochrane describes as treatment with insect venom, “usually given by a course of injections.”

A Cochrane systematic review of seven trials found that venom immunotherapy cut the chance of another serious allergic sting reaction by about 90%. In those trials, 2.7% of treated people had a systemic reaction to a later sting, compared with 39.8% of untreated people. The treatment also improved quality of life. It carries a small risk: about 1 in 10 people treated in the trials had an allergic reaction to the treatment itself, which is why it’s done under medical supervision.

Preventing stings if you’re allergic

Combining AAAAI, NIOSH, and extension advice:

  • Wear light-colored, smooth-finished clothing and avoid perfume, cologne, and scented toiletries (NIOSH).
  • Be careful with sweet drinks outdoors. The AAAAI warns about insects inside straws and cans; University of Arizona Extension notes bees often crawl into open soda cans.
  • Wear closed-toe shoes and avoid loose clothing that can trap insects (AAAAI).
  • Tell the people you’re with about your allergy so they can respond (UF/IFAS).
  • Have nests removed by professionals rather than tackling them yourself. See How to Get Rid of Killer Bees.
  • Know which insect is which. NC State Extension notes that yellowjackets and hornets are often mistaken for honey bees. Our guide Killer Bees vs. Murder Hornets, Yellowjackets, and Wasps shows the differences.

If you live where Africanized bees are established, learn the escape plan in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Frequently asked questions

How long after a bee sting can an allergic reaction start?

Usually fast. MedlinePlus says anaphylaxis symptoms often develop within seconds or minutes. Watch anyone who has been stung, and get help immediately if symptoms spread beyond the sting site.

Is swelling after a bee sting an allergy?

Not by itself. UF/IFAS says swelling around the sting is normal. Warning signs are hives over large areas, swelling away from the sting, trouble breathing, or vomiting.

Can you suddenly become allergic to bee stings?

Yes. The AAAAI explains that allergic people make IgE antibodies after a sting, so a later sting can trigger a reaction even if the first one didn’t.

Is a killer bee sting worse for someone with an allergy?

A single Africanized bee sting carries the same allergy risk as any honey bee sting, because the venom is the same. The added danger is that killer bees sting in much larger numbers.

Do bee allergy shots work?

Yes. A Cochrane review found venom immunotherapy reduced the risk of a serious allergic reaction to a future sting by about 90%.

Should I go to the ER after using an EpiPen?

Yes. The AAAAI says epinephrine is a rescue medication only, and you still need emergency care.

Sources

How Far Will Killer Bees Chase You? Distance, Speed, and How to Escape

/0 Comments/in /by

How far will killer bees chase you? Much farther than ordinary honey bees, which is exactly why escaping an Africanized colony takes a plan. This guide pulls together what university extension services and the USDA say about pursuit distance, flight speed, and the “alarm zone” around a nest, and turns it into practical escape advice. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

This is general safety information. If someone is being stung many times or has trouble breathing, call 911.

Quick answer: how far will killer bees chase you?

Often 400 yards or more, roughly a quarter mile. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists say Africanized honey bees “may pursue the possible intruder for 400 yards or more.” University of Arizona Extension says they “have been known to follow people for more than a quarter mile,” and the National Park Service at Saguaro National Park says the distance “may be as much as one half-mile” in some cases. Bees fly about 12 to 15 mph, and most healthy adults can outrun them, so run to a car or building and don’t stop.

Why killer bees chase farther than other honey bees

All honey bees defend their nests. The difference with Africanized bees is scale. UF/IFAS compares the two:

European honey bee Africanized honey bee
Disturbance that triggers a response Up to about 20 feet from the nest Up to about 120 feet (UF/IFAS ENY-147), or as far as 40 yards (ENY-170)
Bees that respond 10–20 guard bees, or up to a few dozen Several hundred, or even thousands
Time to calm down Usually 1–2 hours May stay defensive for days
Stings from a disturbed colony About 10–20 About 100–1,000

UF/IFAS explains that this defensiveness is an evolutionary response to the predators these bees faced in Africa, including honey badgers, bee-eating birds, and human honey hunters. European honey bees, by contrast, were selected by beekeepers for gentleness over centuries. The background is in Africanized vs. European Honey Bees.

The alarm zone: how close is too close?

The chase starts when you enter the colony’s defensive zone, often without knowing it. University of Arizona Extension says Africanized bees “may have a larger alarm zone around their colony,” which they defend “aggressively and rapidly in larger numbers.”

How big a buffer should you keep? The USDA Agricultural Research Service lab in Tucson recommends staying at least 100 feet, or the width of a four-lane highway, from any Africanized hive.

Warning signs that you’re too close

  • Bees flying at your face or buzzing over your head. UA Extension says this “preliminary defense behavior” is a signal that you’ve entered their area.
  • Bees “head butting” you. The National Park Service says guard bees will often bump you repeatedly as a warning. If you don’t retreat, an attack is likely.
  • A steady stream of bees flying in and out of one opening nearby, which means a nest.

If you notice any of these, walk briskly away before stinging starts. UA Extension suggests covering your face with your hands, looking through the gaps between your fingers, and moving away, into the wind if you can’t tell where the bees are coming from.

How fast do killer bees fly?

About 12 to 15 miles per hour, the same as any honey bee. University of Arizona Extension says “a bee can fly at speeds from 12 to 15 miles per hour and most healthy humans can outrun them. So, RUN and KEEP RUNNING!”

That’s encouraging, but don’t count on a short sprint. Because the bees keep following for hundreds of yards, the goal isn’t to outpace them for a few seconds. It’s to reach a barrier they can’t get through.

How far should you run?

UA Extension gives a specific minimum: if you’re outdoors and not close to shelter, “run or walk briskly for at least 240 yards (the length of two football fields) or as far as you can go until the bees have abandoned you.” Based on UF/IFAS’s 400-yard figure and the NPS half-mile warning, plan to keep going farther if bees are still on you.

The better target is shelter. UF/IFAS, UA, and the CDC’s National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) all say to get inside a building or vehicle. NIOSH adds that a shaded area is better than an open one if you can’t get indoors.

How to escape a killer bee chase

Pulling the extension guidance together:

  1. Run immediately. Don’t stop to look for the nest, grab belongings, or wait for the bees to calm down. Texas A&M’s Apiary Inspection Service says, “do not stop to find bee colony, do not waste time.”
  2. Cover your face and head. Bees target the eyes, nose, and mouth. Pull your shirt up over your face if you have nothing else, but keep your vision clear.
  3. Run in a straight line to shelter. UF/IFAS recommends running straight to an enclosed area. Running through tall grass or small trees can help break up the pursuing bees.
  4. Get inside and stay inside. A few bees may follow you into a car or building. UC Riverside says to stay put anyway, because there are many more outside.
  5. Don’t swat or flail. UA Extension calls flapping at bees “the worst thing to do.” The NPS adds that crushing bees releases an alarm scent that draws more of them.
  6. Never jump into water. UA Extension warns that bees “will wait for you far longer than you can hold your breath.”
  7. Call 911 for serious incidents, then remove stingers by scraping them out.

The full step-by-step plan is in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

What if you can’t run?

Some people can’t outrun anything: young children, older adults, and people with limited mobility. UF/IFAS says these groups are “at the highest risk of a deadly attack due to their inability or hampered ability to escape.” UA Extension’s advice for someone who can’t move is to cover the face with clothing, crouch down to make yourself as small as possible while protecting your head and face, and stay as still and calm as you can.

If you see someone else being attacked, the University of Arizona says to encourage them to run or seek shelter, and not to attempt a rescue yourself unless you have a bee suit and training. Call 911 instead.

How long do killer bees stay angry?

UF/IFAS says a disturbed Africanized colony “may remain defensive for days,” compared with 1–2 hours for European bees. That’s why you shouldn’t go back to retrieve a mower or a dropped phone, and why the area should stay off-limits until a professional removes the colony. See How to Get Rid of Killer Bees.

Why the chase matters: sting numbers

Distance matters because every extra second near the bees means more stings. UF/IFAS estimates a fatal venom dose “normally would take about 10 stings per pound of body weight” from either type of honey bee, while University of Arizona Extension says to seek medical care after more than 15 stings. Allergic people can react to a single sting. Read more in How Dangerous Is a Killer Bee Sting?

Frequently asked questions

Can you outrun killer bees?

Usually, yes. Bees fly about 12 to 15 mph, and University of Arizona Extension says most healthy humans can outrun them. Keep running until you reach shelter.

How far do regular honey bees chase you?

Much less far. UF/IFAS says European honey bee colonies respond to disturbances up to about 20 feet away, with 10 to 20 guard bees, and usually calm down within 1 to 2 hours.

Why do killer bees chase you so far?

They evolved in Africa defending against predators that raid nests, such as honey badgers and humans. UF/IFAS says that pressure produced bees that defend a larger area, in larger numbers.

Should you zigzag when running from bees?

Extension guidance says to run in a straight line to shelter as quickly as possible. Running through brush or small trees may help shake off pursuing bees.

Will bees follow you into a car?

A few may. UC Riverside says to stay in the car or building anyway, since many more bees are outside.

Sources

Killer Bees in California: How Far North Africanized Bees Have Spread

/0 Comments/in /by

Killer bees in California have quietly gone from a desert curiosity to a fixture of Southern California, and researchers keep finding them farther north. Africanized honey bees crossed the Colorado River in 1994. Today university studies find them across the southern half of the state and into the Central Valley, as far north as Napa and Sacramento. This guide covers their arrival, how far they’ve spread, what that means for Californians, and how to stay safe. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: are there killer bees in California?

Yes. Africanized honey bees were first found in California in October 1994 near Blythe in Riverside County. By 1999 they had been found across most of Imperial, San Diego, Riverside, Orange, Los Angeles, and San Bernardino counties, according to UC Riverside. A 2018 UC Davis study found Africanized bees as far north as Napa and Sacramento, and in every county it sampled south of there. In San Diego County, a 2015 study found that about 65% of foraging honey bees carried African mitochondrial DNA.

How killer bees arrived in California

Africanized bees entered the U.S. in South Texas in 1990 and reached Arizona in 1993. California came next.

UC Davis reported in November 1994 that the bees “made their California debut Oct. 24 at the Chuckwalla Valley State Prison, west of Blythe.” (Other UC sources date the swarm’s collection to late October; UC Riverside lists the first discovery as October 1994.) UC Cooperative Extension apiculturist Eric Mussen said at the time that the bees “were an almost pure African genetic strain” and would “almost certainly” move into the Los Angeles Basin.

He was right. A review in the UC journal California Agriculture found that through 1995 only a handful of verified colonies turned up, all in the southeastern corner of the state around Blythe, El Centro, Winterhaven, and Calipatria. After that, the pace picked up. The full national timeline is in The History of Killer Bees.

Where killer bees live in California today

Southern California

UC Riverside reports that during 1999 there were finds “in most areas of Imperial, San Diego, Riverside, Orange, Los Angeles, and San Bernardino Counties, southern Kern County and Ventura County.” In late 2001 foraging bees turned up in Tulare County.

A 2015 study by UC San Diego researchers Yoshiaki Kono and Joshua Kohn, published in PLOS ONE, measured just how Africanized Southern California has become. In San Diego County:

  • About 65% of foraging honey bee workers carried African mitochondria.
  • About 70% of feral (wild) hives carried the African type, compared with only 13% of managed hives.

In other words, most wild honey bees in San Diego County are now Africanized, while beekeepers’ hives mostly are not.

The Central Valley and Northern California

For years it looked like the bees had stalled. Then a 2018 UC Davis study by Wei Lin and colleagues, also in PLOS ONE, sampled bees across Northern California. It found Africanized honey bees “as far north as Napa and Sacramento” and in “all counties south of these counties.” They were “particularly abundant in parts of the central valley and Monterey.” The authors concluded the bees’ northward spread “may not have stopped” and may still be moving slowly.

That’s a big change from the old idea that Africanized bees would stop near Los Angeles. For context on climate limits, see Where Do Killer Bees Live? and Are Killer Bees Moving North?

Why killer bees matter for California agriculture

California’s farms depend heavily on managed honey bees for pollination, which is one reason researchers watch this spread closely. The 2018 UC Davis study notes that Africanized bees are “highly defensive and somewhat more difficult to manage for commercial purposes than the European honey bees traditionally kept,” and that “many parts of California are strongly agricultural.” The California Agriculture review made a similar point early on: the bees’ impact on the state’s agriculture would depend on how much of California they colonize and on how well beekeepers and cities adapt.

The 2015 San Diego study adds a detail that surprises many people: because so many wild colonies are Africanized, “a large fraction of foraging workers in both urban and rural San Diego County are feral.” The bee on your backyard lemon tree may well come from a wild colony, not a beekeeper’s hive.

Beekeepers are part of the solution. UC Riverside says well-maintained European hives “provide the best defense against AHB, by providing competition, and genetic dilution since new AHB queens may mate with EHB males.” That’s why extension experts encourage responsible beekeeping rather than fear of all honey bees.

How to tell if California bees are Africanized

UC Riverside says Africanized bees “look nearly identical” to the European honey bees California has long had. They can be distinguished only “by measurements under a microscope, and by analysis of their DNA.” The California Department of Food and Agriculture identifies Africanized bees as they enter new areas, but once an area is well colonized, UC Riverside says “it is assumed that all honey bees not under the care of a beekeeper should be treated as Africanized.”

UC Riverside also gives a quick field check: honey bees are about 3/4 inch long, brownish, and a little fuzzy. “Less fuzzy insects with bright yellow and black markings, or with grey paper nests are probably wasps, not bees.” See our guide on how to identify Africanized bees.

Where killer bees nest in California

UC Riverside says Africanized colonies “nest in places European bees did not, including small cavities near the ground like water meter boxes or overturned flower pots.” They swarm more often, too, so colonies are likely to be more common. For a full list of nest sites and warning signs, see Killer Bee Nest: Where Africanized Bees Build.

Deaths from killer bees in California

UC Riverside’s table of U.S. Africanized bee deaths records one in California: an 83-year-old man in Long Beach in September 1999, stung about 50 times. Like most recorded deaths, it involved an older person. The UC review in California Agriculture noted that through 1995, the state had only one stinging incident from an Africanized colony, and it wasn’t fatal.

The risk is real but concentrated. UC Riverside says the danger is greatest for “people allergic to stings, or with limited capacity to escape (the young, old, and handicapped), and to confined livestock or pets.”

How Californians can stay safe

UC Riverside’s advice is short and practical:

  • Bee-proof your home. Look for cracks and holes that lead to wall voids. Screen or caulk them, or fill the cavity with insulation. Clean up tires, pots, and other debris.
  • Be alert. Look before disturbing vegetation. “Many bees coming and going from a single spot (not just many bees at flowers) may indicate a nest.”
  • Get help. Contact trained, equipped bee removal personnel if you find a colony. “Don’t try to remove them alone.”
  • If attacked, run for shelter. Get to a car or building and stay there even if some bees follow you in. Don’t jump into water.
  • Remove stingers fast. UC Riverside says it doesn’t matter how you remove them, as long as you do it quickly.

Read the full escape plan in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Frequently asked questions

When did killer bees come to California?

October 1994, at Chuckwalla Valley State Prison west of Blythe in Riverside County, according to UC Davis and UC Riverside.

Are there killer bees in Northern California?

Yes. A 2018 UC Davis study found Africanized bees as far north as Napa and Sacramento, and in all sampled counties south of there.

Are there killer bees in Los Angeles and San Diego?

Yes. UC Riverside reported finds across Los Angeles and San Diego counties by 1999. A 2015 study found about 70% of feral hives in San Diego County carried the African type.

Are beekeepers’ hives in California Africanized?

Mostly not. The 2015 San Diego study found the African type in only 13% of managed hives. UC Riverside says well-kept European hives are “the best defense” against Africanized bees.

Who removes killer bees in California?

Trained and equipped bee removal professionals or pest control operators. UC Riverside says not to try removing a colony alone.

Have killer bees reached the San Francisco Bay Area?

Researchers say yes. The 2018 UC Davis study notes that an earlier small-scale study found Africanized honey bees in the Bay Area, “far north of their last recorded distribution,” and its own sampling found them in Bay Area counties including Santa Clara, Contra Costa, and Alameda. They were rare there, though: only about 2% to 4% of the bees sampled in those counties were Africanized, compared with about 28% in Santa Barbara County.

Sources

Killer Bees in Florida: How They Arrived and What Floridians Should Know

/0 Comments/in /by

Killer bees in Florida took a different route than they did anywhere else in the United States. Instead of flying in over the border like they did in Texas and Arizona, Africanized honey bees arrived by ship, and they eventually took hold around Tampa Bay. Today Florida’s extension service describes them as established across the southern half of the state. This guide covers how they got there, where they nest, who gets stung, and Florida’s rules for removing a colony. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: are there killer bees in Florida?

Yes. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists say Africanized “killer” bees were first documented near the Port of Tampa in 2001, had established colonies around Tampa by 2003, and “have spread throughout the southern half of the state.” The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) says their population “has grown and will continue to grow.” In Florida, most sting victims are pets and farm animals, not people.

How killer bees came to Florida

Most of the U.S. range of Africanized bees grew from natural spread out of Mexico. Florida is the exception.

UF/IFAS researcher Glenn Hall said in 2005 that African bees had “periodically turned up at Florida’s deep-sea ports since 1987.” For years, swarms arriving through ports such as Jacksonville, Miami, and Tampa were caught in bait hives maintained by FDACS. Florida set up the country’s first African honey bee detection program, run jointly by FDACS and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, with bait hives at ports and training for ships’ crews and dockworkers.

Eventually some colonies slipped through:

  • 2001: UF/IFAS documents the first African honey bees in Florida near the Port of Tampa.
  • 2002: FDACS records Florida’s first positive identification of an Africanized honey bee in the Tampa Bay area. (UF and FDACS date the first find slightly differently.)
  • 2003: Colonies are established in and around Tampa, according to UF/IFAS.
  • 2005: USDA ARS reports Africanized bees in Florida for the first time in its official tracking, noting the arrival “was not contiguous” with the spread from the Southwest and was most likely human-assisted transport. Because they’d been found in 14 counties, Florida considered them established.

Hall said at the time that researchers “did not believe that enough bees could arrive on ships to form an established population, but they did so in Puerto Rico, and now appear to be doing the same in Florida.” For the wider story, see The History of Killer Bees.

Where killer bees live in Florida

UF/IFAS describes Africanized bees as having spread through the southern half of the state from their foothold around Tampa, hybridizing with local European honey bees. Florida’s warm climate suits them. Hall noted in 2005 that the state’s climate is ideal for these bees, which evolved in tropical and subtropical Africa.

FDACS’s FAQ says nearly 500 bait hives are in place statewide, mostly in port areas, along Interstate 10, and on the Florida–Alabama border, checked on a three-week cycle. For where the bees sit nationally, see Where Do Killer Bees Live?

How to tell if Florida bees are Africanized

FDACS says it is “impossible to visually distinguish Africanized honey bees from European honey bees.” UF/IFAS explains that Florida uses a morphometric test called FABIS (Fast African Bee Identification System), and if a colony is still questionable, a more comprehensive test called USDA-ID.

What FDACS does highlight are the behavioral differences:

  • Africanized bees defend their nests “with less provocation, in greater numbers and for longer distances.”
  • They swarm as many as 16 times a year, compared with once or twice for European bees.
  • They’re not selective about nest sites and will quickly move into empty spaces, holes, and cavities.

Where killer bees nest in Florida

UF/IFAS says Africanized bees nest in much smaller spaces than European honey bees, often 1 to 5 gallons compared with about 10 gallons. They’ve been found in water meter boxes, cement blocks, old tires, house eaves, barbecue grills, cavities in the ground, and hanging exposed from tree limbs. UF/IFAS also notes they’ll nest in damp underground cavities, which European bees usually avoid.

Because the colonies are small, UF/IFAS says they “often go undetected until disturbed.” That’s the core risk in Florida neighborhoods. Learn the warning signs in our guide to where killer bees build nests.

Who gets stung in Florida

UF/IFAS reports that “although some humans do get stung by African bees every year, most sting victims are pets and domestic animals because they are unable to escape tethering, corrals, kennels, etc.” If you keep dogs on a tie-out or horses in a pen, check the area for bees first. Our guide Protecting Pets and Livestock from Killer Bees covers that in detail.

FDACS also offers some perspective: “Generally, the chances of being struck by lightning are far greater than injury from any stinging insect.”

Florida’s rules for removing a killer bee colony

Florida has unusually clear guidance. According to UF/IFAS, the state recommends that feral honey bee colonies nesting near people or domestic animals be either:

  1. Removed from the nest site by a beekeeper registered with FDACS or a trained pest control operator (PCO), or
  2. Eradicated by a licensed PCO.

UF/IFAS notes that “it is the responsibility of the property owner to deal with an unwanted swarm or colony of honey bees.” Registered beekeepers may remove colonies or swarms only if they use no pesticides. FDACS publishes a list of registered beekeepers and PCOs who offer removal or eradication. UF/IFAS also warns against leaving a colony alone because “the bees seem calm,” since a small colony can grow larger and more defensive. More on choosing help is in How to Get Rid of Killer Bees.

Killer bees and Florida beekeeping

Florida’s beekeepers are a big part of the state’s defense. UF/IFAS says every beekeeper in Florida must register with FDACS’s Division of Plant Industry and follow best management requirements designed to keep managed colonies European. State apiary inspectors check registered beekeepers’ hives at regular intervals, and UF/IFAS recommends requeening any colony that turns unusually defensive.

FDACS says managed hives are “the first and best defense against an area becoming Africanized,” because European bees dilute the Africanized population and prevent takeovers of European hives. That matters economically, too. FDACS says Florida’s honey industry consistently ranks among the top five in the nation, with an annual value of more than $13 million, and pollination is worth even more.

UF/IFAS adds that Florida has run African honey bee training programs so first responders and pest control operators know how to handle a bee attack.

Bee safety tips for Floridians

UF/IFAS recommends a family bee safety plan:

  • Listen and look for bees entering or leaving one spot, a sign of a nest or swarm.
  • Enter carefully into garages, sheds, grills, and old cars where bees might nest.
  • Check before using lawn mowers, blowers, or chain saws.
  • Never disturb a swarm or colony.
  • Carry epinephrine if you know you’re allergic, and tell the people you’re with.

FDACS adds a simple rule for the outdoors: “Look, Listen, Run.” If bees attack, run, cover your nose and mouth, and get into a building or car. Don’t jump into water or hide in bushes. Full steps are in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Frequently asked questions

When did killer bees come to Florida?

UF/IFAS dates the first documentation to 2001 near the Port of Tampa. FDACS dates its first positive identification to 2002 in the Tampa Bay area. Colonies were established around Tampa by 2003.

What part of Florida has killer bees?

UF/IFAS says they’ve spread through the southern half of the state from the Tampa area.

Are killer bees in Florida dangerous?

They’re more defensive than European honey bees, but FDACS says a single sting is no more venomous. Most Florida sting victims are pets and confined animals.

Can I kill a bee colony myself in Florida?

Florida recommends removal by a registered beekeeper or trained PCO, or eradication by a licensed PCO. The property owner is responsible for arranging it.

Who do I call about bee stings in Florida?

FDACS lists the Florida Poison Control Center at 1-800-222-1222 for bee sting information. Call 911 for an attack in progress or a severe reaction.

Do beekeepers’ hives help against killer bees?

Yes. FDACS says managed hives are “the first and best defense” because European bees dilute Africanized populations.

Sources

Killer Bees in Arizona: Why Every Wild Honey Bee Counts as Africanized

/0 Comments/in /by

If any state is synonymous with killer bees, it’s Arizona. Killer bees in Arizona have been established since 1993, and University of Arizona Extension now advises residents to treat every wild honey bee colony as Africanized. This guide explains how they got there, why the desert suits them, where they nest, and what Arizonans and visitors should do to stay safe. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: are there killer bees in Arizona?

Yes, statewide. University of Arizona Extension says Africanized bees were first seen in Arizona in 1993, reached Yavapai County by 1997, and “have been recorded statewide.” Its current guidance is that “all wild honey bees in Arizona are considered to be ‘Africanized’ to some extent.” Bees in a beekeeper’s managed hive may be European, but a wild colony in a wall, tree, or saguaro should be treated as Africanized.

How killer bees arrived in Arizona

Africanized honey bees reached the U.S. in South Texas in October 1990 and pushed west. The University of California, Riverside’s bee program lists Arizona’s first discovery as June 1993. A University of California California Agriculture review of the invasion describes that first detection: a colony in the roof of a Tucson house that stung a small dog to death on June 6, 1993. Scientists estimated the colony was 4 to 8 months old, so the bees may have arrived as early as late 1992.

By 1993 the bees had also turned up in Saguaro National Park country. The National Park Service notes that “by 1993, Africanized honey bees had made their way into Arizona.” The full timeline is in The History of Killer Bees.

Arizona’s first fatalities

The first recorded deaths came two years later. UC Riverside’s list of U.S. Africanized bee deaths includes an 88-year-old woman stung more than 1,000 times near Phoenix in October 1995, and a 66-year-old man near Phoenix the same month. Both cases fit the pattern extension researchers describe again and again: older people who couldn’t get away from a disturbed colony.

Why killer bees thrive in Arizona

Arizona’s climate works in the bees’ favor. University of Florida entomologists explain that Africanized bees come from tropical and subtropical Africa and don’t survive temperate climates as well as European bees. A USDA ARS researcher also found that heavy, year-round rainfall (more than 55 inches) correlates with an almost complete barrier to their spread. Most of Arizona gets nowhere near that, so the dry, warm low deserts are ideal.

The landscape helps too. The National Park Service says park biologists estimate “hundreds of bee colonies” live in Saguaro National Park, and “all of these colonies are now considered to be Africanized.” Colonies there use rocky areas, cliff faces, underground cavities, saguaro cavities, trees, and buildings.

Arizona’s desert bloom also feeds them. Mesquite is one of the region’s best-known honey plants; read more in Mesquite Honey: Flavor, Origin, and How It’s Made.

How to identify killer bees in Arizona

You can’t do it by eye. University of Arizona Extension says it’s difficult to distinguish western honey bees from Africanized hybrids, and “only genetic testing can reveal the specific lineages in a colony of bees.” What you can observe is behavior. UA Extension notes that Africanized bees “may have a larger alarm zone around their colony,” defend it “aggressively and rapidly” in larger numbers, and “often chase intruders or perceived threats over longer distances.”

The National Park Service describes a warning sign worth knowing: guard bees will often “head butt” you repeatedly when you get too close to a colony. If you don’t retreat, the NPS warns, a full-blown attack is about to follow. For lab methods, see How to Identify Africanized Bees.

Where killer bees nest in Arizona

UA Extension says Arizona’s wild honey bees sometimes nest in tree branches but more often use enclosed spaces: hollow-block walls, wall voids, attics and crawl spaces, in-ground irrigation boxes, hollow tree trunks and stumps, rock crevices, and caves. They’ll also move into empty hive boxes. Another UA fact sheet tells residents to look for bees flying in and out of “a crack in a wall, hole in the ground, or in the cover of a water valve box.”

UA Extension adds a practical warning: if a colony is removed from a void, the space should be cleaned out completely and the entrance sealed, or new swarms will move right back in.

Bees at your pool, birdbath, or feeder

Seeing honey bees around your yard doesn’t automatically mean a nest is nearby. A University of Arizona fact sheet explains that honey bee colonies can hold up to 60,000 bees, and single workers can fly as far as six miles to collect pollen and nectar. In Arizona’s heat, they also collect water from birdbaths, swimming pools, and pet dishes, and they’ll visit hummingbird feeders for sugar water. The fact sheet says foraging bees “will sting only if they are trapped in clothing, stepped on or otherwise threatened,” so single foragers should be left alone.

What should get your attention is a steady stream of bees going in and out of one opening. That’s a colony, and it should be removed by a professional.

Interestingly, some Arizona beekeepers put wild bees to work. UA Extension’s Yavapai County office says local beekeepers often collect “feral honeybees” during swarming, requeen them with a European queen, and keep them for pollination and honey. The requeened colonies can be somewhat more aggressive than European bees but can still be managed.

Who is most at risk in Arizona

UA Extension’s Yavapai County office says Africanized bees pose the greatest threat to people who work outdoors: “farmers, construction workers, landscapers, yard maintenance workers, and even pest control workers.” Most attacks trace back to a disturbed hive, often from a lawnmower, weed eater, tractor, or other power equipment. UA’s community IPM guide adds that bees are more irritable on cloudy days and cool mornings, and can be provoked by vibration, water, petroleum smells, and even some hair spray.

Hikers are the other big group. The National Park Service advises hikers to listen for bees, watch for bees entering or leaving a colony, and be cautious around any water source, since honey bees need to live close to water.

How to stay safe from killer bees in Arizona

University of Arizona Extension and the National Park Service give consistent advice:

  • Never try to remove a colony yourself. UA says “NEVER shoot, throw rocks at, pour gasoline on, burn, treat with pesticides, or otherwise threaten established honey bee colonies.”
  • Don’t ignore a “calm” colony. Small new colonies “may be docile at first, but can become more defensive with age,” according to UA. Have them removed by a trained professional.
  • Bee-proof your property. UA recommends filling holes 1/8 inch or larger in walls, removing items like overturned clay pots, and screening rainspouts, chimneys, and water meter boxes.
  • Dress smart outdoors. Light-colored clothing and no perfume or cologne, per the National Park Service.
  • Know your escape. If bees attack, run to a building or car. If no shelter is close, UA says to keep moving for at least 240 yards, about the length of two football fields. The NPS says that in some cases bees may chase as far as half a mile.

Our full guide, What to Do If Killer Bees Attack, covers the steps in order. For how far bees really follow people, see How Far Will Killer Bees Chase You?

If you’re stung in Arizona

UA Extension says to scrape stingers out with a fingernail, the edge of a credit card, or a dull knife instead of pinching them. Seek medical attention right away if you feel ill, think you may be allergic, or have been stung more than 15 times. UA also points out that most healthy adults can withstand several hundred stings, so deaths from venom alone are “extremely rare.” Panic and allergy are the bigger dangers.

Frequently asked questions

When did killer bees come to Arizona?

In 1993. UC Riverside lists June 1993 as the first discovery, and University of Arizona Extension says the bees were first seen in the state that year.

Are all honey bees in Arizona killer bees?

All wild honey bees in Arizona are considered Africanized to some extent, according to University of Arizona Extension. Bees in managed hives kept by beekeepers may be European.

Where in Arizona are killer bees found?

Statewide. They were recorded in Yavapai County by 1997 and are now considered present across Arizona, including Phoenix, Tucson, and Saguaro National Park.

Can you outrun killer bees in Arizona?

Usually. UA Extension says bees fly about 12 to 15 miles per hour and most healthy people can outrun them. Run to a car or building and keep going.

Should I jump in a pool to escape bees?

No. UA Extension warns that bees will wait far longer than you can hold your breath.

Who removes killer bee hives in Arizona?

Experienced bee removal professionals or licensed pest control operators. UA Extension says not to try to remove colonies yourself.

Sources

Killer Bees in Texas: Where They Live, How They Arrived, and How to Stay Safe

/0 Comments/in /by

Killer bees in Texas are not a rumor or a thing of the past. Africanized honey bees first entered the United States in South Texas in 1990, and they have been part of the Texas landscape ever since. This guide covers how they arrived, how far they’ve spread, where they like to nest around Texas homes, and what to do if you find a colony. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

Quick answer: are there killer bees in Texas?

Yes. Africanized “killer” bees have lived in Texas since October 1990, when the first U.S. swarm was found near Hidalgo in the Rio Grande Valley. By August 2006 the Texas Apiary Inspection Service had detected them in 163 of the state’s 254 counties. They look like ordinary honey bees. The difference is behavior: they defend their nests faster, in larger numbers, and over longer distances.

How killer bees arrived in Texas

The story starts in Brazil. In 1956, researchers imported African honey bees to breed a bee better suited to the tropics, and in 1957 some of those bees escaped into the wild, according to the USDA Agricultural Research Service (ARS). The hybrids spread north through South America, Central America, and Mexico.

ARS scientists saw them coming and had traps waiting. On October 15, 1990, a swarm turned up in an ARS honey bee trap just outside the South Texas town of Hidalgo. That was the first confirmed Africanized honey bee colony in the United States. ARS noted at the time that the arrival “did not come as a surprise,” because researchers had tracked the bees’ northward movement for years.

The Texas Apiary Inspection Service (TAIS), part of Texas A&M, took an aggressive approach to monitoring and regulating commercial bee movement to slow the spread. Natural migration continued anyway, as swarms moved north county by county. The full backstory, from Brazil to the border, is in The History of Killer Bees.

Where killer bees live in Texas today

TAIS reported that by August 2006, Africanized bees had been detected in 163 of Texas’s 254 counties. That’s nearly two-thirds of the state, and the figure is two decades old. Nobody publishes a fresh county-by-county count each year, so the safest working assumption anywhere in South, Central, and West Texas is that a wild honey bee colony could be Africanized.

Two things limit them. First, Africanized bees came from tropical and subtropical Africa, and University of Florida entomologists say they don’t survive temperate climates as well as European honey bees. Second, a USDA ARS researcher found a strong correlation between heavy, year-round rainfall (more than 55 inches a year) and an almost complete barrier to their spread. Most of Texas is drier than that, which helps explain why the bees settled in so thoroughly. For the national picture, see Where Do Killer Bees Live?

Do all Texas honey bees count as killer bees?

No. Beekeepers in Texas keep European honey bees in managed hives, and the familiar white boxes on farms are not the concern. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says the two types “look the same because they are simply two varieties of the same species,” and highly defensive behavior is the major trait that sets Africanized bees apart. Wild colonies living in walls, meter boxes, and trees are the ones to treat with caution.

How to tell if Texas bees are Africanized

You can’t tell by looking. TAIS puts it plainly: an Africanized bee “looks the same, only being microscopically smaller” than a European honey bee, and “the venom is the same. The behavior can differ.” Labs confirm Africanized bees with wing measurements and DNA. Our guide on how to identify Africanized bees explains how that testing works.

Here’s a useful detail for homeowners: the Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says you do not need to test bees to see if they’re Africanized if you’re planning removal. Treat a wild colony near people as potentially defensive and call a professional.

Where killer bees nest around Texas homes

TAIS lists the habits that put Africanized bees in close contact with people:

  • Less fussy about choosing a home. They may nest closer to the ground and “love water meters” and abandoned bee hives.
  • Swarm and abscond more readily. They move more often, so a yard that was clear last month may have a colony today.
  • More aggressive and more defensive around the nest.

The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab adds that bees will nest in buckets, cans, empty boxes, old tires, infrequently used vehicles, lumber piles, fence posts, sheds, garages, and spaces under buildings, in cavities as small as 2 gallons. For a full rundown, see our guide to where killer bees build nests.

What sets off Africanized bees in Texas

Most stinging incidents start when someone disturbs a nest without knowing it’s there. TAIS lists the common triggers:

  • Vibration from equipment: tractors, mowers, weed eaters, and chain saws
  • People walking close to the hive. You don’t have to touch it.
  • Frantic animals that provoke the bees
  • Loud noises

That’s why ranch work, yard maintenance, and construction are high-risk activities. TAIS advises patrolling an area before mowing or doing yard work, because “colonies can move during the day while you are at work.”

How Texans can prevent stinging incidents

TAIS and the Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab recommend the same basic steps:

  1. Bee-proof your home. Seal openings larger than 1/8 inch in walls, around chimneys, masonry, and plumbing.
  2. Screen the gaps you can’t seal. Use 1/8-inch hardware cloth over rain spouts, vents, tree cavities, fence posts, water meters, and utility boxes.
  3. Clean up debris. Remove yard junk and abandoned equipment that could shelter a colony.
  4. Inspect regularly. From spring through fall, check your house and yard once or twice a week for bees entering or leaving one spot.
  5. Teach children awareness. Kids should know to back away from bees coming and going from a hole and to tell an adult.
  6. Check before tying up animals. Examine an area for bees before penning pets or livestock.

What to do if killer bees attack in Texas

TAIS teaches a simple memory aid, A-C-E:

  • A – Alert others in the area.
  • C – Cover your head and face, but don’t block your vision.
  • E – Exit. Get into a car or house immediately. Don’t stop to find the colony and don’t waste time.

TAIS also says to stay calm if you’re operating machinery, dial 911 for serious incidents, carry an epinephrine auto-injector if your doctor has prescribed one, and scrape stingers out with a knife edge or fingernail. The full escape plan is in What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Should you remove a hive yourself?

No. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says bees “should never be allowed to build or remain in the walls or chimney of a structure,” because they grow more defensive once they have young and stored honey. Killing bees inside a wall is extremely difficult without opening the wall, and all the comb has to come out or it will rot and attract other pests. Its advice is to call a pest control operator or bee removal service right away, and to compare more than one if you have the option. Texas A&M keeps a Texas County Bee Removal page for areas without listed operators. Our guide How to Get Rid of Killer Bees walks through the safe options.

Frequently asked questions

When did killer bees come to Texas?

October 15, 1990. USDA ARS found the first U.S. swarm in a research trap just outside Hidalgo, Texas.

How many Texas counties have killer bees?

The Texas Apiary Inspection Service reported Africanized bees in 163 of 254 Texas counties as of August 2006. Treat wild colonies across most of the state as potentially Africanized.

Are killer bees in Texas more venomous?

No. TAIS says the venom is the same as a European honey bee’s. The danger comes from how many bees sting when a nest is disturbed.

Do I need to test bees on my property?

Not if you’re having them removed. The Texas A&M Honey Bee Lab says testing isn’t needed before removal or extermination. Only beekeepers shipping bees out of state may need testing.

Who do I call about a killer bee hive in Texas?

A licensed pest control operator or a bee removal service. Texas A&M’s Honey Bee Lab maintains a county bee removal list for areas without local listings. Call 911 if someone is being stung.

Are killer bees still spreading in Texas?

They already occupy most of the state. Their spread slowed sharply after the 1990s, and climate appears to limit them in wetter, colder regions.

Sources

Protecting Pets and Livestock from Killer Bees

/0 Comments/in /by

When people think about killer bee attacks, they picture a person running from a cloud of bees. The victims in many incidents, though, are animals. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists report that in Florida, “most sting victims are pets and domestic animals because they are unable to escape tethering, corrals, kennels, etc. while being attacked.”

The good news is that most of the risk comes from a few avoidable situations. This guide covers why animals are so vulnerable, how to protect dogs, cats, horses, and livestock, and what to do if bees attack an animal. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

This is general safety information, not veterinary advice. If your animal is stung many times or has trouble breathing, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Why animals are at higher risk

They can’t escape

The single most important factor is confinement. People who disturb a nest can run to a car or house. A dog on a chain, a horse in a stall, or goats in a small pen can’t. NC State Extension notes that mass-stinging incidents involving pets have occurred “where the animals had no opportunity to escape or find shelter from pursuing bees.” The USDA Forest Service adds that “even the mild-mannered European honey bees have been known to attack animals tied near their colonies.”

They trigger defense

Animals do exactly the things that set off defensive bees:

  • Vibration and noise. Texas A&M’s apiary inspection service lists equipment vibration (tractors, mowers, weed eaters, chain saws), loud noises, and frantic animals among the triggers for Africanized bees.
  • Bounding through brush. The USDA Forest Service warns that “a large animal bounding through the brush will disturb colonies of Africanized honey bees. When the animal returns to its master, the attacking bees will come with it.”
  • Dark, furry targets. The Forest Service notes that defending honey bees tend to go after dark, furry objects, because those resemble natural predators like bears and skunks.
  • Strong scents. The Forest Service advises horseback riders to avoid “lemony” or citrus-based fly-control products on horses, which “have been known to provoke an attack.”

Africanized colonies nest close to the ground

UF/IFAS and USDA ARS describe Africanized bees nesting in small spaces such as water meter boxes, holes in the ground, old tires, junk piles, overturned flower pots, cement blocks, and sheds. Those are exactly the places a curious dog sniffs, a horse grazes past, or a mower runs over.

How to protect pets

  1. Don’t tie or tether pets outdoors unattended. NC State Extension lists “Don’t keep pets tied or tethered” as a core prevention step. If an outdoor run is necessary, make sure the animal can get indoors or to shelter.
  2. Check before you pen. UF/IFAS advises examining areas for nesting colonies “before tying or penning pets and livestock.”
  3. Leash dogs on hikes in areas with Africanized bees, as the USDA Forest Service and San Diego County’s agriculture department recommend.
  4. Move water bowls if bees use them. University of Arizona Extension notes honey bees drink from pet water bowls, bird baths, and pools, and suggests relocating water sources that attract bees.
  5. Walk the yard regularly. Look and listen for bees streaming in and out of one spot. UF/IFAS recommends weekly checks during swarm season (March to July in Florida). See Killer Bee Swarm Season.
  6. Bee-proof the house and yard. Seal gaps larger than 1/8 inch, screen vents and meter boxes, and remove debris where colonies could nest.

How to protect horses and livestock

The same principles apply on a bigger scale:

  • Inspect pastures, barns, and fence lines before turning animals out or using machinery, especially in spring and summer. Look at hollow trees, stacked equipment, old vehicles, culverts, and irrigation or water meter boxes.
  • Survey before mowing, haying, or using tractors. Texas A&M advises patrolling before mowing or yard work and notes that colonies can move in during the day while you’re away.
  • Avoid tying horses near potential nest sites, and don’t leave animals confined in small pens next to brush piles or outbuildings you haven’t checked.
  • Skip citrus-scented fly sprays in Africanized areas.
  • Plan an escape route. Know where animals can be released safely or moved indoors.
  • Have colonies near barns and pens removed by a beekeeper or trained pest control operator. Florida’s state guidance is that feral colonies near areas frequented by people or domestic animals be removed by a registered beekeeper or trained pest control operator, or eradicated by a licensed one.

What to do if bees attack an animal

  1. Protect yourself first. The USDA Forest Service says to try to release attacked animals “without endangering yourself.” If you rush in unprotected, you become a target too, and you can’t help anyone while being stung.
  2. Release or shelter the animal if you safely can. Untie or open the gate so the animal can run, or call it into a car or building.
  3. Get yourself to shelter. Run in a straight line to an enclosed car or building, covering your face. Don’t jump into water. See What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.
  4. Call 911 for a serious attack. NC State Extension notes that fire departments may respond with foam or surfactant spray to kill attacking bees safely. The USDA Forest Service describes the same approach for wildland crews.
  5. Remove stingers quickly once you’re away from the bees. UF/IFAS says what matters most is removing stingers as soon as possible, because they keep pumping venom. Scraping with a fingernail or card works.
  6. Call your veterinarian right away. Treat multiple stings, swelling of the face or throat, weakness, vomiting, or trouble breathing as an emergency.

Sting numbers and animals

The venom of an Africanized bee is the same as a European honey bee’s. What’s dangerous is volume. UF/IFAS estimates a risk of toxic envenomation in people after about 5 to 10 stings per pound of body weight. That math is a reminder of why small animals are especially vulnerable: a 10-pound dog weighs a small fraction of what an adult human does. Your veterinarian can advise on your animal; don’t wait to see whether symptoms develop. Read more in How Dangerous Is a Killer Bee Sting?

What about pets in Ohio and other northern states?

Africanized bees are not established in Ohio or the Midwest. (See Are There Killer Bees in Ohio?) Pets still get stung up north, though, usually by yellowjackets. Ohio State University’s Ohioline explains that yellowjackets often nest in old rodent burrows and mulch, can sting repeatedly, and build nests of 4,000 to 5,000 workers by late summer. Dogs that dig or nose into ground holes in August and September are prime targets. The same basic advice applies: check the yard, keep animals away from nests, and call a professional to remove nests near pet areas. Our guide Killer Bees vs. Murder Hornets, Yellowjackets, and Wasps shows how to tell them apart.

Florida shows how this plays out in practice; see Killer Bees in Florida for the state’s history and its rules for removing a colony.

Frequently asked questions

Can killer bees kill a dog?

Yes, mass stinging can kill pets, especially small or confined animals. UF/IFAS reports that in Florida, pets and domestic animals make up most Africanized bee sting victims. Prevention and fast veterinary care are key.

Should I go in to save my pet during a bee attack?

Not without protection. Federal and extension guidance says to try to release or call the animal to safety without putting yourself in the attack zone, then call 911 for a serious incident.

Are horses at risk from Africanized bees?

Yes, particularly when tied or penned near a colony, or when machinery is running nearby. The USDA Forest Service also warns that citrus-scented fly sprays can provoke attacks.

Do bees go after dogs more than people?

Defensive honey bees tend to target dark, furry objects that resemble natural predators, according to the USDA Forest Service, and dogs often blunder into nests. That makes dogs frequent targets.

How can I tell if bees are nesting near my barn?

Watch for a steady stream of bees flying in and out of the same opening, such as a gap in siding, a hollow post, a meter box, or a hole in the ground. A cluster hanging on a branch with no traffic in or out is likely a temporary swarm.

Related reading

Sources

  • UF/IFAS EDIS ENY-170, “Living with the African Honey Bee”: https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1205/pdf
  • UF/IFAS EDIS EENY-429, “African Honey Bee, Africanized Honey Bee, Killer Bee”: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN790
  • UF/IFAS Solutions for Your Life, “Africanized Honey Bees”: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/natural-resources/africanized-honey-bees/
  • NC State Extension, “Africanized Honey Bees: Prevention and Control”: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/africanized-honey-bees-prevention-and-control
  • USDA Forest Service MTDC, “Working Safely in Areas With Africanized Honey Bees”: https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm00672313/index.htm
  • Texas Apiary Inspection Service, “Africanized Bees”: https://txbeeinspection.tamu.edu/public/africanized-bees/
  • University of Arizona Extension AZ1846, “Wild Honey Bees in Community Environments”: https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/default/files/2024-08/az1846-2020.pdf
  • USDA ARS Carl Hayden Bee Research Center, “Africanized Honey Bees Overview”: https://www.ars.usda.gov/pacific-west-area/tucson-az/carl-hayden-bee-research-center/docs/africanized-honey-bees/africanized-honey-bees-overview/
  • County of San Diego Department of Agriculture, Weights and Measures, “Africanized Honey Bees: How to Avoid”: https://www.sandiegocounty.gov/content/dam/sdc/common_components/images/awm/Docs/ahb_avoid.pdf
  • Ohio State University Ohioline HYG-2075, “Yellowjackets”: https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2075-11

Can You Keep Africanized Bees? Beekeeping and Africanized Genetics

/0 Comments/in /by

It sounds like a contradiction: keeping “killer bees” on purpose. Yet across much of Africa and Latin America, beekeepers manage African-derived honey bees every day, and some of those countries are among the world’s biggest honey producers. In the United States, the picture is very different. This guide explains how Africanized bees are managed elsewhere, why U.S. agencies discourage keeping them, whether they actually make more honey, and what a remarkable population in Puerto Rico suggests about the future. It’s part of our Killer Bees 101 guide.

This is general information, not legal advice. Beekeeping rules vary by state; check with your state apiary program before acquiring or moving bees.

The short answer

Elsewhere in the world, yes. In the U.S., it’s generally discouraged, and in some states the rules are designed to keep managed colonies European. University of Florida (UF/IFAS) entomologists write that African bees “can be managed efficiently and safely, but the skills required to manage African bee colonies differ from those required to manage European bee colonies.” They add that management of African bee colonies “has been discouraged in the US while accepted in Central and South America,” which UF/IFAS attributes partly to public perception of the bees and to the U.S. legal system.

How Africanized bees are kept in other countries

UF/IFAS describes beekeepers in South Africa using African honey bees as “the bee of choice,” and beekeepers in Central and South America routinely using African-derived bees “with slight management modifications.” The practices UF/IFAS describes include:

  • One colony per stand. Each hive sits on its own stand so working one colony doesn’t agitate its neighbors.
  • Lots of smoke, early. Beekeepers use ample smoke, which is believed to mask the alarm pheromone, and they smoke the colony before starting work, because once the bees are agitated, smoke may fail to calm them.
  • Full protection. A full suit, boots, gloves, and veil, often taped at the wrists and ankles.
  • White-faced veils. Honey bees target dark colors, and black veil mesh can get covered with bees.
  • Requeening (sometimes). Some beekeepers in Africanized areas requeen with European queens, though UF/IFAS notes this is uncommon in sub-Saharan Africa, where beekeepers mostly work with the bees as they are.

UF/IFAS Solutions for Your Life adds that honey production and pollination in South America dipped during the transition to Africanized bees, but countries there are now exporting honey again, and Africanized bees are being selectively bred to be more docile.

How U.S. beekeepers handle Africanized areas

In the U.S., the goal is usually to keep managed colonies European, even where Africanized bees are common in the wild.

Florida

UF/IFAS explains that every beekeeper in Florida must register with the state agriculture department and follow best management requirements for maintaining European honey bees. Registered beekeepers have their hives inspected regularly. “Beekeepers closely following the BMRs are not keeping African honey bees,” UF/IFAS writes, and it recommends requeening defensive colonies “to ensure that the bees remain European.” Florida’s guidance for feral colonies is that they be exterminated by certified pest control operators or removed alive by a registered beekeeper who will requeen the colony with a European queen.

Arizona

University of Arizona Extension describes a common practice there: beekeepers collect feral swarms, requeen them with a European honey bee queen, and keep the colonies for pollination and honey. The extension notes that these requeened feral colonies “can be somewhat more aggressive than European bees” but “can be managed for production.”

Everywhere else

NC State Extension’s advice for beekeepers anywhere Africanized bees might appear:

  • Mark all queens, no exceptions, so you’ll know if one is replaced.
  • Inspect regularly so colonies don’t “feralize.”
  • Store empty equipment properly so swarms can’t move in.
  • Watch for parasitic swarms. Africanized swarms can invade a European colony and take over. UF/IFAS describes small Africanized swarms clustering on a European hive, gradually being adopted, and the European queen disappearing.
  • Requeen unusually defensive colonies and contact your state apiary inspector for testing.

Beyond safety, there’s a business reason. Mississippi State University Extension notes that beekeepers there breed and sell queens and starter colonies, and if their bees mate with Africanized drones, other beekeepers won’t buy them.

Do killer bees make more honey?

Usually not per colony. It’s one of the most common questions, and the research points the other way:

  • USDA ARS wrote in 1996 that Africanized hybrids are harder to manage partly “because they do not store as much honey as European honey bees.”
  • UF/IFAS says African-derived colonies “tend to store proportionately less food (honey) than European bees,” likely because they evolved where food is available year-round.
  • Instead of building big stores, they grow fast and swarm often, as many as 10 or more times a year, compared with about 1 to 3 times for European colonies.

So why are some Latin American countries major honey producers? UF/IFAS attributes it to the presence of African bees in those countries: lots of colonies, year-round bloom, and beekeepers who’ve adapted their methods. High national output isn’t the same as more honey per hive.

The upside of Africanized genetics

Africanized bees aren’t just a problem to be managed. They carry traits that bee breeders find interesting:

  • Pest and disease resistance. UF/IFAS says African bees are more resistant to many honey bee pests and pathogens than European bees, including problems like Varroa mites that devastated wild European colonies in North America.
  • Fast development. Africanized queens and workers develop a day or two faster than European ones, according to UF/IFAS.

The gentle Africanized bees of Puerto Rico

The most striking example comes from Puerto Rico. Africanized bees arrived on the island in 1994. A 2017 study in Nature Communications by researchers from the University of Illinois, the University of Puerto Rico, and colleagues reports that within about 12 honey bee generations (1994–2006), the population underwent “a drastic reduction in aggression.” Today’s Puerto Rican bees, which the researchers call gentle Africanized honey bees, resemble European bees in temperament but keep other Africanized traits, including their size, their behaviors for removing Varroa parasites, and faster queen development.

The authors proposed several possible drivers: dense human population (people destroying the meanest colonies early on), the island’s isolation, and a lack of major colony predators. They called Puerto Rico “presently the only place in the New World where gentle Africanized honeybees have evolved,” and suggested that genetically diverse gentle bees “could help secure agricultural production” by providing pollinators more resistant to parasites and diseases. Ohio State University entomologists highlighted the same study in 2024 under the heading “Africanized bees can be gentle over time!”

That research is about breeding and evolution on an island over many generations. It doesn’t mean a feral Africanized colony on the U.S. mainland is safe to keep in your backyard.

Should you keep Africanized bees?

For a hobbyist in the U.S., the practical answer is no. Even experienced beekeepers in Africanized regions typically requeen with European stock. If you live where Africanized bees are established:

  1. Register your hives with your state, if required, and follow its rules.
  2. Buy queens from reputable breeders and requeen defensive colonies promptly.
  3. Mark queens and inspect often.
  4. Place hives well away from people, pets, roads, and livestock.
  5. Treat captured feral swarms as potentially Africanized until requeened.

If you’re a homeowner with a wild colony, don’t try to “keep” it. Have it removed by a professional. See How to Identify Africanized Bees and What to Do If Killer Bees Attack.

Frequently asked questions

Is it legal to keep Africanized bees?

It depends on your state. Florida, for example, requires registered beekeepers to follow best management requirements intended to keep managed colonies European. Check with your state apiary program.

Do Africanized bees produce honey?

Yes. They make honey like any honey bee. UF/IFAS notes that they tend to store proportionately less of it than European colonies.

Can you make Africanized bees gentle?

In the short term, beekeepers requeen colonies with European queens. Over the long term, Puerto Rico shows that a population can become gentle in about a dozen generations under the right conditions.

Why don’t U.S. beekeepers use Africanized bees for their mite resistance?

Their defensiveness creates safety and liability problems, and their tendency to swarm and store less honey makes them harder to manage for commercial honey and pollination. Researchers are studying gentle Africanized populations for useful traits.

What happens if an Africanized swarm moves into my hive?

UF/IFAS describes Africanized swarms taking over European colonies, with the European queen lost in the process. Marking your queens helps you notice. Contact your state apiary inspector if a colony suddenly turns defensive.

Related reading

Sources

  • UF/IFAS EDIS EENY-429, “African Honey Bee, Africanized Honey Bee, Killer Bee”: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN790
  • UF/IFAS EDIS ENY-147, “Differences Between European and African Honey Bees”: https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN784
  • UF/IFAS EDIS ENY-170, “Living with the African Honey Bee”: https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1205/pdf
  • UF/IFAS Solutions for Your Life, “Africanized Honey Bees”: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/natural-resources/africanized-honey-bees/
  • University of Arizona Extension, “Feral Honeybees” (Backyard Gardener #119): https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/attachment/FeralHoneybees.pdf
  • NC State Extension, “Africanized Honey Bees: Prevention and Control”: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/africanized-honey-bees-prevention-and-control
  • USDA ARS, “Africanized Honey Bees: The March North Has Slowed,” Agricultural Research (1996): https://agresearchmag.ars.usda.gov/1996/mar/forum/
  • Mississippi State University Extension, “Africanized honey bees not established in Mississippi” (2025): https://extension.msstate.edu/news/feature-story/2025/africanized-honey-bees-not-established-mississippi
  • Avalos et al., “A soft selective sweep during rapid evolution of gentle behaviour in an Africanized honeybee,” Nature Communications 8, 1550 (2017): https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-017-01800-0
  • Ohio State University BYGL, “Myths and facts – Africanized honey bees” (2024): https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2431

Powered by CookieAdmin